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At Carven, quiet sensuality continued in the first collection signed by newly-minted director of design Mark Howard Thomas, and not only because he worked alongside his predecessor, Louise Trotter, both here and elsewhere previously. But there were also legible signs of where he plans to take the brand. Although fall was Thomas’ first at the helm, it was in his opinion more importantly the fifth collection for the revived French house. As such, it was key that whatever he presented should dovetail with Trotter’s pre-fall finale. With six weeks to go before Paris Fashion Week, the new creative lead homed in on a handful of ideas. One was the “Esperanto” jacket, a very fitted 1951 design by Madame Carven that has a passing resemblance to the Bar jacket, which he used to develop a more accentuated silhouette in blazers and dresses. You May Also Like The other was a dressing gown, which lent its fluid proportions to a coat in double-face wool or a shaggy ink blue variation. Its fringes were distilled across many-a piece, ranging from an asymmetric skirt to a blouse with long trailing sashes that could be styled in a variety of ways. Another still was scarves, interpreted in a number of ways, including as a sculptural drape on a one-sleeved blouse and the charming folded collar of a crisp poplin shirt. “I really wanted to make sure there was texture, some color, and a little bit more skin that was a bit more visible than what we’ve done up until now,” he said. Collection Gallery 26 Photos View Gallery Exhibit A: the nape-baring of past seasons was stepped up, cutting the neck of a nubby wool blouson wide open or yielding a cardigan with buttons on front and back. Thomas spoke of the opportunity for evolution afforded to “a baby brand” with only a year’s presence on retail floors, albeit one that comes with a history that tracks back to 1945. This opener to his Carven chapter felt promising.
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